'Prong Collars, My Arse!'
That was a small part of the response that I got from my coworker Amanda to my question about prong collars.
Since Monday, a lot of information has come in about the harmful effects of prong collars and humane alternatives to them. The Web site positivedogtraining.com cautions, "[W]e strongly urge people to avoid using the prong collar on those dogs who display tendencies towards being, shy, submissive, nervous or timid. These types of dogs do not do well by being ruled and trained with a heavy hand and harsh methods. In fact, it can have a lifelong, negative effect on the dog's overall personality, in his interactions with other animals and people, and can lead to major behavioral problems. In addition to the fact that the dog training prong collar can result in having negative effects on a dog, it has also been known to have absolutely no impact on the behavior of a dog at all, with the exception of increasing the dog's pure will, and pain tolerance level. Many dogs, after having the prong collar used on them for a period of time, eventually build up an incredible tolerance to the painful pinching effect of the collar, and as a result become even more difficult to walk or train."
![]() |
Commenter to this blog Gia put it this way: "I would NOT use a prong collar, especially on a dog who is behaving in a defensive manner towards reactive dogs. The prong collar will have behavioral consequences [for] the dog. The pinch collar adds the pain factor into the equation. So, your dog will come to associate not only fear but pain when a strange dog acts in an inappropriate manner. The idea that a prong collar simulates a mother's teeth is preposterous. A mother has two front canines, not 30 that would enclose a pup's entire neck with unceasing pressure. Also, the mother might nip, not bite down and apply a painful pressure. Furthermore, a mother dog would not discipline her pup for acting in a defensive manner. As you probably know, your dog is behaving this way on lead because he knows he has no escape, so he feels the need to defend himself. Time and time again, a defensive dog has turned into a dog that is a hysterical cujo by the prong collar. The prong collar will not teach your dog not to react to other dogs. It will teach your dog that other dogs equal fear AND pain. The prong collar does teach dogs not to pull when it's on, but the issue here isn't a pulling problem. It is a defensiveness and fear problem."
So what are the alternatives? The most promising, in my view, is something called the "Canny Collar," suggested by commenter Gia, which is similar to a Halti head halter, except that the leash attaches to it behind Fido's head so that his head is never pulled to one side or the other. This collar is made in the U.K., but there is an outlet in Canada as well.
Since Dexter's trouble is anxiety-based, my coworker Amanda and commenter Gia both suggested that I look into the "Anxiety Wrap." This is a piece of fabric that wraps snuggly around the dog's body and provides a calming effect. The principle behind it is called "maintained pressure." Dr. Shereen Farber explains how it works in an article called "The Technique of Maintained Pressure": "If an animal is highly stressed, the autonomic nervous system's … sympathetic division sends neural messages to the receptors to lower the amount of sensation required to activate the receptors. This action allows the animal to flee or fight when needed. Unfortunately, many animals have had trauma to the CNS or the nerves and associated structures that communicate with the brain and body (the peripheral nervous system). Animals can also sustain stress, illnesses, pain, all of which lower the threshold of sensation needed to fire the sensory receptors. … In theory, maintained pressure, as supplied by the hands of the handler or therapist, acts to calm the sensory receptors and raise the amount of sensation needed to fire those receptors to reporting to the brain. Remember that a chronically stressed dog also perceives potential injury when there may be none. Hence his 'guard is up' so to speak. As we apply the therapeutic band or our hands, both acting as therapeutic agents to calm the animal, we slowly sink into the tissue and quiet the active firing of those receptors resulting in a calmer dog. … The animal quickly settles into a more pliable state and his guard is lowered."
![]() |
Other suggestions included the Calming Cap, which I rejected out of hand because it's made by Premier Pet Products, which also sells an enormous range of citronella products, and the martingale collar, which is much too similar to a choke collar for my taste (the difference is that it's made out of fabric and tightens via a martingale effect). Commenter Rachel suggested the Wonder Whistle Leash by KII Enterprises. This sounds intriguing because it whistles every time the leash goes taut, but I haven't been able to locate it online yet. If anyone knows where it can be purchased, please share that info with us. I think it might be good for Dexter since he seems to go into a trance-like state when he pulls.
I got some behavioral training tips as well. Commenter Gia suggested that, while working with Dexter, I try to stick to "safe" routes with him to prevent a repeat performance of the lunging behavior. But, unfortunately, in my neighborhood, there are no "safe" routes to take—it's very dog-intensive—so I'll just have to work harder, I guess.
My coworker Amanda came up with a full-blown lesson plan for Dexter, which I really appreciated and intend to follow. Here's an extract from it:
- Teach "watch me." … A couple of times each day you'll want to grab a few little [treats]. Show them to Dexter, then bring them up to your nose so that Dexter can follow. When his eyes are on your face … praise and give him the [treat]. It will only take a couple of repetitions before he starts to get the idea, and you'll then be able to incorporate your catch phrase …. Once you're both very comfortable and Dexter is very reliable, it will be a great tool to redirect his attention before the lunging starts. This is also a fabulous clicker exercise ….
- "No free lunch" walks. Starting right away, keep his leash short so he has to be close to you and you don't have to pull or reel him in when he gets excited. He will, for the time being, only be allowed to walk beside you or behind you. As soon as you notice he is starting to pull, increase his pace, or even try to sneak a bit ahead of you, plant your feet and make the sharp "ah-ah" sound …. One of two things will happen: He may be surprised and stop in his tracks and look at you (great!) and you will want to reward him immediately when he does that. … [G]ive him a chirpy "good boy!" and a head pat, back scratch, etc. Because of your strong objection to his behavior (the foot plant and the sharp noise), an equally strong vocal reinforcement will actually be the ideal way to reward him because of the contrast. Then you can offer a happy "Let's go" and keep moving.
There also might be times that he begins to walk more quickly or pull because of an external stimulus. You will still do the same as above, planting your feet firmly as soon as you notice and loudly and clearly vocalizing your objection, but it will likely take a bit more effort on your part to get his attention once the walk has come to a halt. Cessation of movement is really key here, and you'll want to make absolutely sure that he can't take even a single step forward until you say so. There are lots of things you can try [in order] to get his attention quickly and effectively, and they will probably vary depending on the circumstances. I'm sure you already have things you do to redirect his attention to you, so if you have something you know will work, go for it. … If he is really fixated, you can also step in between him and whatever he is fixated on and offer another vocal correction. … [I]t might help to gently cup his face with your hand and actually move it so that he is looking at you, and he will snap out of it pretty quickly.
I think pulling on the leash is really the root problem that needs to be addressed before the lunging issue can be solved, and unfortunately the best technique [is] planting of the feet …. I'd also like to offer you an alternative for … when Dexter might not be in the mood to respond the way you would like. If … Dex starts to pull, stop quickly as usual, but, instead of waiting for him to relax and continuing onward, change directions. … It will work because you are still ending the forward motion, and it will also reinforce the idea that he has to pay attention to you actively in order to follow, rather than blindly assuming you will keep moving forward.
- Focus more on fading the treats. … Dexter [needs] to start looking to you because you are the leader and he needs your guidance and not because he wants a [treat]. I know you talk to your dogs A LOT, but you'll want to step that up for Dexter's walks. Give him feedback the entire time—encouragement when he's walking nicely and at peace with his surroundings and mild corrections if, for example, you notice his ears perk up when he hears a dog barking in the distance. This should all be very conversational and even soothing, saving the vocal extremes for your more intense scenarios. … I'm talking no silence at all. Let him know exactly how you feel about every single thing he does—every step he takes, everything he looks at or smells, and every reaction to the world around him.
I also got some book suggestions from commenter Gia: "Click to Calm and anything by Pam Dennison, who specializes in this sort of thing. Her book is called How to Right a Dog Gone Wrong, and she also has a new one out about rehabbing city dogs too."
So I guess I've got my marching orders! I'm going to start implementing some of these ideas and see what works the best. I'll report back at some point. Perhaps those of you with a similar problem or even those of you who have already resorted to a prong collar could try these things too. Let me know how it goes, and do keep those ideas coming. Thanks!











